La Porta in Monticchiello

November 9th - 2007

Monticchhiello is a village just a few kilometers to the west of Montipulciano...a lovely drive through rolling hills and cypress.
We had a terrific lunch at Osteria La Porta....too cold & windy to eat on the terrace, so we had to enjoy the view after our lunch.
Gail & I shared the polenta with funghi and pecorino...wow! We also ordered a plate of chickpeas with rosemary. How could something so simple be so divine. The chickpeas were smaller and a little more formed, not as mushy as the ones I've had in the states and of course everything takes on the added dimension of the olive oil. The olive oil was dark, full of flavor and not a hint of bitterness!!
I had the ravioli with nettles and ricotta and pecorino...a tad on the heavy side and there was nothing subtle about the pecorino.
Gail had Pici with braised beef & vegetables. Pici is a local dish...a thicker, softer style of spaghetti. This dish was a winner. Full of flavor.
Dessert....chocolate tort with creme anglaise. Moist and densely chocolate.
Wine - Gail had a glass of Moscato di Asti-La Spinata, true to form 17+
I had a glass of Az Agr. Baracchi Smeriglio- Merlot- deep, dark cherry...gorgeous 17+

Yes...we'd return & hope for a warmer, calmer day to take advantage of the terrace and the dreamy views! The bottom two images are of the view. . . . . .

Here's a link to La Porta

Print from Pienza

Two WC's above my bed at Montorio

These charming paintings were hung above my bed at Montorio. Stephanie's friend, a local architech paints watercolors as a hobby. Every year she has an exhibition...maybe one year we'll show up in time to attend.

Tuscan drive . . .

November 8th - 2007

I loved this stack of rocks...not sure if the farmer made the stack or some tourist that couldn't resist.....or an old girl-scout marking a trail. . . . . .

Tuscan drive

November 8th - 2007

We did a loop drive from Montepulciano to Pienza...then on to San Quirico d'Orcia, Montalcino, Sant' Antimo and thru Castiglione d'Orcia.

We stopped for a fabulous lunch at Taverna dei Barbi on the Barbi wine estate. It's located on the road from Montalcino to Sant'Antimo....there is a small sign and you turn off to your left.

We had a wonderful prix fixe lunch...25E. We choose the vegetarian menu.
We started with a rollatini of zucchini stuffed with cheese and a touch of 'picante' tomato sauce....with a side of baked ricotta. Second course was the most incredible pasta fogoli...drizzled with to-die-for olive oil and Parmesan cheese. (we paid for our sins later). Third course...a pecorino flan served with grilled zucchini, eggplant, radiccio and tomato. Dessert was a cabernet-soaked pear served with whipped cream and a smear of dark chocolate.
We tried two different glasses of the estates' Brunello di Montalcino, the Riserva 2001 and 2000. 2001 edged out the 2000 but just barely. They were robust, full of cherries...complex. Great! 2001 a 17....2000 16+.
A wonderful place to stop for a marvelous lunch!! The grounds were peaceful...the dogs a hoot...the staff very solicitous. Maybe it's the other way around the staff was a hoot and the pups were solicitous??
Here's a link to Taverna dei Barbi

It was a marvelous day with incredible light!

We met this Maine Coon when we pulled off the road to take these shots. He/she... I didn't get a close enough look....ran through the gates of the farmhouse and immediately began the adoption process. A lovely warm creature that I had to temp away from the car so that it wouldn't join us. I once had a Maine Coon...the closest cat to a dog. Terrific companions....I guess they aren't too picky about whom they adopt for affection.

Montorio

November 7th - 9th 2007

We booked our apartment in Venice for our entire stay...4th -20th November.
This year we decided to do a side trip for a few nights... southern Tuscany. A few years ago Paul & I went to Tuscany, we stayed in Loro Ciuffenna, in the northern area of Tuscany. I was struck by the beauty of the southern area, I had wanted to return and spend more time near Montepulciano.

So we packed our overnight bags and my camera and off we went for our three night adventure.
7th - 10th November.

After a slight struggle at Hertz...... the manager tried to convince us that the car we were renting with one brake light was OK. "You hava one lights tits OK". Right, tell that to the Polizia that stops us on the Autostrada.......we were on our way.

BRAVO to Gail....the newest Autostrada babe!! What a whizzzzz..... The A1 during the week is a mass of trucks. A solid right lane of trucks going 120k. She held up like a champ!!
I navigated and passed out chocolate...and made sure that we stopped at every Autogrill.

What a terrific find.... MONTORIO!!
(click on Montorio for link)
It is located on hilltop overlooking San Biagio....just down the hill from Montepulciano.
Stephania greeted us as we pulled into our parking spot. She is a gem, incredibly helpful. She explained all necessary appliances and left us with her number. ( I think she watched us pull in and realized that we were the speed demons that had been terrorizing the nearby hilltop village.)
She left us with enough food in the frig for breakfast the following morning...including a nonna cake. By now Gail was in a coma...the nonna cake brought her around!
We rented Antonio da Sangallo...a two bedroom apartment. It was heavenly. We each had a king-bedroom with beamed ceilings.
Late night reading was a treat!
The apartment had everything we needed. It was beautifully furnished and immaculate. There is even a laundry room at the foot of our stairs (20 stairs)
We had the entire top floor.

The price per night for this bliss? 110E
Return? Yes, in a heartbeat!!

San Biagio, on the slopes of Montepulciano

The top photo is an assemblage of three photos. The church is an amazing structure, a birthday cake on steroids.
The view from Montorio was fantastic....the three bottom photos were taken just outside our apartment. Every time we stepped outside our door the church would change with the different light of the day.
The autumn colors were magnificent!
The air tinged with smoky leaves.

Tuscan sunset & storm at Montorio

The evening of November 9th, the last night of our stay at Montorio, there was a great sunset followed by a terrific lighting storm...amazing!!
Really I didn't use a filter or enhance in Photoshop....the sky was ablaze!!

Thanksgiving...a couple days late

Here are some images I took on Thanksgiving.
What a glorious day!!

Views from Corte Tiepolo

My Dream Spirit.........

Not the best looking guy....but he sure caused wild rides in the night during my stay at Corte Tiepolo. Ya kinda have to squint.................

Corte Tiepolo

November 4th -20th

What a glorious stay at Corte Tiepolo!
Gail and I rented a wonderful studio apartment from the Passi family. The Palazzo was built by the Tiepolo (not the painter) family in the 1500's. It was a privilege to be surrounded by so much history.
Our studio was on the ground floor....15' x 24'...with 15' high wood-beamed ceiling. The beam above my bed featured a creature with a overgrown schnozz...he sprinkled dream-dust every night....I had the most marvelous night-time adventures. (see above posting)

The most outstanding feature of our little home were the two windows on the Grand Canal. What a position...sitting on my yellow stool watching the parade. Every evening Paul would call around 6...and for the best reception on my cell I had to sit in the window. What a terrific phone booth.
The big surprise was the quiet...just the chug of the vaporetto and the water lapping. One night I dreamt the water was spilling into our room....filling up the floor.......the bed was starting to float........

The apartment was perfect for us....enough room to spread out...entertain a few friends....fix a snack....make our new drink.
The Venetian Peach.
2 parts peach puree (Pesca frutta 50% minimo-Coop brand in a rectangular box)
1/2 part cream
1 part vodka
Not sure if I'll be able to replicate this at home...can't find the same peach puree. The closest thing that I could find here is a combo peach puree and apple/pear blend. I may have to save the Venetian Peach for Venice!

We were so comfortable in our new home and were so warmly greeted by Leila Passi. A beautiful gracious woman. She has spent years dedicated to the restoration of her incredible home..and now that she has retired from her work as a doctor she will have time to pursue her love of cooking. Next year, we'll have to take a few lessons.

Another new discovery for us was the COOP....the local grocery store. The biggest one is located at the Piazzale Roma Vaporetto stop. Oh, my the treasures in store....we went nutz for: the bottled mushrooms (funghi trifolati-Coop brand),
artichokes (carciofini in teri-Coop brand),
pesto alla genovese(Sacla brand),
cheeses,
fruit chutneys (great with the cheese),
inexpensive wines,
crackers alla cipolla & rosemary(Magie del Forno brand),
crunchy bruschetti(Crostini con farina integrale- blue label Coop brand),
olives,
olive oil,
balsamic, yogurt,
freshly baked foccasia
......holy night the place is packed with delights. Gail & I carted so much stuff back home...our knuckles now drag the cobblestones.
ps...a liter of COOP water is .30....amazing considering that at the local coffee stop the same bottle sells for 2.50E.
Oh and Paul's Pocket Coffee is 5.90E for a box of 32. Note....if you are a coffee & Chocolate lover....Pocket Coffee is just waiting for you. It sets me afire with a wild buzz....not for the faint-hearted. It's Paul's favorite...as if he needed a buzzzzzzz!

The second photo from the top is the Grand Canal view of Palazzo Tiepolo...our windows are on the left...right above the gondola. Ulysses is Leila's puppy...a grand chap that knows how to pose.

Here is the web site for Corte Tiepolo

Happy Thanksgiving!!!!!

Tuscany. . .

I'm home...I'm home...ah Venezia

Came in around 3 pm yesterday. Not a bad flight!
Paul greeted me with his little-boy face. What a great face for the best welcome home. He had a cart all ready for the trek to the parking lot. Then we slugged our way through traffic and headed to Reservoir Tavern by 5pm...we wanted to snag our favorite table. I have to say the food at Reservoir sure holds its own against the food in Italy.
It was great coming home to late autumn...there are still some wild-red and neon-yellow leaves...against black trunks...and the smell of autumn is divine!!

Today is catch-up day. I did download my memory cards. Went to the grocery store to pick up the last things I need for tomorrow's feast.

I promise a very detailed report and tons of photos....really I will...just give me a day or two!!

Can't wait to start........cheers to all!!!

Hello from Venezia

Well Ms K.....here I am.
We are having a grand time....way too much wine....is it possible to have too much vino?
It takes me awhile to get into a rhythm...finding an internet location....the best place for a cappucino. I need more time...maybe an entire year. Time for daily Italian lessons...hours to sit and paint....oh, the time just disappears. My spelling just goes down the drain. I start thinking in Italian...so my english goes into the vapors. Could it be the vino?
I am the proud holder of an abbonamente....a pass that allows me to buy a month vaporetto pass!! I am now official....an official sailor!!
I promise when I return on the 20th..a full report...lots of visuals.

Tonight is our party at Elizabetta's.....we usually return to our apartment around 3 am....I may be in a coma tomorrow!!

A big hug to all!!

See you on the 21st of November....

I'm off...if hurricane Noel will let us lift off!!
Back on November 21st!!

Nov 1st....Day of the Dead